Thursday, June 21, 2007

The Chinese way of life: Conquering new heights

I have a confession to make. I was a bit thrilled when I heard that China was going to build a road right up to Everest base camp. I have always dreamt of climbing the Everest (okay, another confession. Not climbing really, but at least getting till the base camp). And I thought the road will get me there easy (the day I start earning obnoxious amounts of money like some of my editors do, I will head for Tibet, take the road to Everest base camp and spend a day or two there, drinking rum – just like climbers in Vertical Limit were doing).
But within seconds I was thinking about the impact that the road will have on the fragile ecosystem. Imagine tourists coming in truckloads to see the tallest mountain peak in the world and littering, the fumes from vehicle exhausts, and so on. And, who knows, if the tourist flow is steady enough, the capitalists might think of building a mall there pretty soon.
China came in for criticism even when it linked Lhasa with Beijing with a new railway line. Although (damn, Chaitanya Kalbag has ensured that all of us who worked for Hindustan Times never use the word ‘though’ simply because he doesn’t like it) it took more than an engineering marvel to build the highest railway line in the world, the Tibetan way of life could forever be destroyed in the years to come. Western influences and tourist inflows will ensure that the next generation will never be the same again.
And here comes another confession. I was, and still am, thrilled by the train from Beijing to Lhasa (still waiting for that obnoxious amount of money that will let me travel to the other side of the Great Wall).
I have always dreamt of travelling in trains like Paul Theroux and R.L. Stevenson and writing about my experiences (even though I would never be able to write as beautifully as Theroux).
Coming back to the money involved: A one-way ticket from Beijing to Lhasa costs $158 (that’s around Rs 6,500) for a cushioned berth. You could get a hard berth for $100. Can you believe it? 6,500 bucks for a 48-hour journey that takes you through one of the most stunning landscapes in the world. The Tibet travel permit sets you back by another $100. So, for a little over $400, you could go from Beijing to Lhasa (meals not included) and back.
I can speak a smattering of Chinese: ni hao (hello) and xie xie (thank you). And I know a decent bit about Tibet after watching Francis Ford Coppola’s Kundun and Jean-Jacques Annaud’s Seven Years in Tibet.
I think I will do well on that journey: have beef with fungus (that's a delicacy) on the way. Even try pangolins (horror or horrors). This is how the bastards kill the poor animal:
"We keep them alive in cages until the customer makes an order. Then we hammer them unconscious, cut their throats and drain the blood. It is a slow death. We then boil them to remove the scales. We cut the meat into small pieces and use it to make a number of dishes, including braised meat and soup. Usually the customers take the blood home with them afterwards."
Overall, it will be an interesting journey. Are you game?

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