Guilt trip in Phuket after the tsunami

I wrote this article for the Hindustan Times in 2005 after visiting Thailand -- for five days -- to see first-hand the tsunami reconstruction work. The trip was sponsored by the Thai Tourism Bureau and needless to say, they were very unhappy with this article. But this is what I saw in Phuket, despite what our minders wanted us to see.

Phuket struggles with ghosts; or is it guilt?

The beach umbrellas are back in Phuket, spanking new, like much else in this scenic tourist locale that was battered by the tsunami nearly three months ago.
Phuket is beautiful once more, back in business. But that's the point, there's not much business. This Thai resort town needs to exorcise its tsunami ghosts for that.
Ghost stories have been doing the rounds since the tragedy. There was a 'case' of a tuk-tuk (taxi) driver stopping to talk to foreigners on the road, but his passengers couldn't see anyone. Then there was a tailor who took a foreigner's measurements but later realised that the man had no legs.
But 'ghosts' are not scaring away tourists from Phuket, the guilt of having fun in a 'ghost town' is. Authorities are also battling misconceptions. This year, Belgians Natalie and Robert Bergen visited Phuket for the fourth time. It has been rebuilt and looks better, they said, but decided to leave after a day because they felt uncomfortable. Why? Because Robert said he had seen victims being buried at the beaches.
That is just the kind of misconception that has done Phuket in, said Andreas Kutschka, a diving instructor. He said the government had made elaborate arrangements to identify the dead and return them to their native countries. He said most of his customers were not returning because they felt having a good time in the sea that had killed thousands wasn't right.
This guilt is consuming Phuket's tourism, especially its once-bustling beachlife. The scene at joints along the beaches is eerie. The tables are all laid out in the evening but there's hardly a soul around. By midnight, the workers pack up and leave. This is when the 'ghost town' really haunts you.

PHUKET REVISITED
(Wrote this one because I loved Phuket -- and also because I had to placate some ruffled feathers at Thailand tourism bureau because of the article above)

This is probably the best time to visit Phuket.
Air fares are heading southwards and with tourist arrivals down after the tsunami, the government is going for a major push to woo visitors back. You'll get way too many deals and unbridled attention in the Thai resort town.

And the moment you land in Phuket, you'll fall in love with it. At the airport, you'll find smiling and helpful officials (and that's like a gust of fresh air if you are flying from Delhi). Outside you'll find clean toilets, smooth highways and roads and infrastructure that's really geared towards tourism ­ buses with high seating and low flooring (you have to climb seven steps to get to your seat and the bus is just one foot from the ground) are particularly amazing.

After the tsunami, Phuket looks even more beautiful. The umbrellas and chairs on the beach are all new, the yatchs and boats have got a fresh coat of paint, the unauthorised constructions are gone, and the sand and water are cleaner and greener.

But the killer waves have left a scar. Iyo Dufour, an Einstein lookalike who plays the great scientist in TV shows in Belgium, visits Phuket regularly. This year, he spent only a day there. He said would return for a longer visit next year, when things settle down.

It was sentiments like Dufour's that forced the government to give tourism a big push. Around a fortnight back, the Tourist Authority of Thailand spent Baht 15 million and Thai Airways another Baht 19 million to host over 800 journalists and travel agents from around the world to let people know that Phuket was back in business. But for a town that takes its tourism seriously, that seemed like extravagance.

Phuket is a sea of greenery and you would have to really struggle to find a spot of dust. And it has something to offer for everyone. If you are the shopping types, there are many malls (Tesco Lotus is the cheapest) or the local markets. If you want a spot of the sun and sea, there are a host of beaches. If you wish to rock the night away, try Bangla Road which has many pubs and restaurants and even a fight club.

Foodwise, the place has a lot to offer: from the legendary Thai food to Italian, Indian, continental... You name it, Phuket has it.

But the best thing to do would be to spare an evening for Phuket Fantasea, a nighttime cultural theme park. Spread over 140 acres, you could either shop for souvenirs or try your hand at the numerous games. Then, head for the Palace of the Elephants to see the Thai version of Ramayana. The dinner and show costs Baht 1,500 but every second of the show is worth the money.

Seeing the beauty of Phuket and its people, I guess I have become a statistic for Thailand. I would join the over-4 lakh visitors that visit Thailand every year ­ and come back a content breed.

Factfile
How to get there: From Delhi, there's a stopover at Bangkok. Tickets from Rs 10,000 to Rs 18,000
Where to stay: Several resorts along the beach offer spectacular views. Try Hilton or Thavorn Resort
What to do: Hit Bangla Road for music, food and to watch a fight in the ring. Must-visit is Phuket Fantasea, a nighttime cultural theme park